Wines of Abruzzo – Regional Information
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC
It should be made clear from the outset that the term montepulciano refers to the type of vine from which the grapes are harvested, while the name “Montepulciano d’Abruzzo” refers to a red DOC wine conforming to the standardised regulations. It should also be pointed out that there is no connection whatsoever between the montepulciano vines and the town of Montepulciano in the province of Sienna known for its “Nobile” and “Rosso” di Montepulciano which are produced with totally different grapes.
According to historical records, the Montepulciano vine was first grown in the Peligna Valley in the province of L’Aquila since the mid 18th century as well as on the interior hillside of the province Pescara. Since the 1950’s, the vine has been raised in all of the hillside area near the coast and has become the main vine used in the region.
Grapes used to produce Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC wines may only originate from vines on hilly slopes or high mountain plateaux, no higher than 500 metres above sea level. The grape yield must not exceed 14.000 Kilograms per hectare and the minimum alcohol content level is 11,5% vol.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines are produced almost entirely of the Montepulciano grape but blending of up to 15% with other aromatic grapes from the region is allowed. After the harvest of 2006, several innovations have been instilled:
1. A “Riserva” label has been introduced and wines qualifying for the title must have been aged in Abruzzo for two years with a minimum of 9 months in wood casks for this period. The minimum alcohol content must be of 12,5% vol.
2. There are two new DOC sub-areas in the province of Pescara: the north west “Terra dei Vestini” which may not exceed a yield of 10.000 Kilograms per hectare and the “Terre di Casauria” located in the south west region of the province which may not exceed a yield of 9.500 Kilograms per hectare.
3. In regards to alcohol content, the minimum percentage for Montepulciano d’Abruzzo has been raised to 11,5% from the original 11,0% requirement.
4. The alcohol volume of the Montepulciano “Cerasuolo” variety has been raised to a minimum of 12%. The yield for this wine has seen a significant increase over the last few years, rising from approximately 300.000 hectolitres at the beginning of the 1990’s to 790.000 hectolitres in 2004.
Montepulciano are strong and resistant vines, they adapt well to various growing systems, and the grapes mature between the beginning and end of October. It can be enjoyed very young (6-8 months after harvest) and if matured for an extended period, for example in concrete vats or wood casks, it becomes more sophisticated. The wines tend to be dark ruby red in colour when they are young and take on a pomegranate hue when they mature. The nose, depending on the age of the wine, evokes the scent of violets, cherries, liquorice roots and spicy notes such as tobacco and roasted coffee beans. The wines also tend to be high on tannin content but round smoothly to reveal a velvety consistency when aged.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Cerasuolo DOC
Cerasuolo DOC is a sub-category of the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC in the sense that it is produced from the same grape but goes through a different vinification technique which only allows the skins to steep in the must for a short amount of time. The new techniques make use of controlled temperature conditions which help fix the primary bouquet and the proceed to mature in barriques or oak casks.
Cerasuolo has light cherry red hue with intensity and its bouquet is very fruity with cherry standing out. It tends to have a mid finish with an almond touch.
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC
Trebbiano is Italy’s most widely grown white wine grape. The Trebbiano d’Abruzzo grapes used to make the DOC wines of the same name are harvested solely from vineyards in hilly countryside which must not exceed an altitude of 500 metres above sea level with the only exception to the rule being the fact that 600 metres above sea level are allowed if the vineyard is on a south face. This is a medium to late shooting vine which ripens at the end of September till the beginning of October.
The maximum yield of the grapes used for winemaking must not exceed 14.000 Kilograms per hectare and the minimum alcohol content is 11,5% vol. Trebbiano grapes cover a surface area of more than 13.000 hectares in the Abruzzo region producing approximately 190.000 hectolitres of DOC wines. Although this wine is generally not considered sophisticated by any means, Abruzzo is the only region in Italy able to bring out the most in its production.
Controguerra DOC
Controguerra is the latest addition to the list of DOC wines in the Abruzzo region and were first recognised as such in 1996. The grapes which are used to produce the Controguerra DOC wines are found in five specific areas: the town of Controguerra, Torano Nuovo, Ancarano, Corropoli and Colonnella, all in the province of Teramo.
The maximum yield per hectare must not exceed 12.000 Kilograms for red wines without any specific indication of the vine locations. For the white wines, the maximum yield per hectare must not exceed 14.000 Kilograms but here as well, no specific indication of the vine locations must be made. Other types of white Controguerra Doc include the Spumante, Chardonnay, Passerina and Pecorino.
Colline Teramane – DOCG
A new arrival on the Abruzzo wine scene was the recently acknowledged DOCG certificate awarded to the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo “Colline Teramane” label. The letters DOCG indicate a high quality wine whose origins and authenticity have been strictly controlled and guaranteed at the source. The DOCG certificate is valid for the wines from the 2003 vintage onward.
The production of the DOCG wines conform to very strict rules: the grapes may only be grown in a limited area, therefore only the most suitable wine growing soils in Teramo which is located in northern Abruzzo. The yield per hectare amounts to 9.500 kilos (compared to 14.000 kilos used for Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC wines). Blending of up to 10% with Sangiovese grapes is permitted and then aged in oak casks for at least two years. A “Riserva” title can only be earned if the wine was aged for three years and the alcohol content is a minimum of 12,5% vol.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo “Colline Teramane” has always been considered easy to identify by wine experts since the full-bodied structure is enhanced by a more refined and drier flavour. Deep ruby red colour, with a bouquet reminiscent of cherries, liquorice, spices and velvety consistence and typically long finish. Suitable for accompaniment with game or grilled meats.
Article reproduced and amended from the Vinitaly 2007 Special(March)
with the kind permission of Gaudenzio D’Angelo, Directing
Editor and A.I.S. Director Abruzzo.
