Mountainbiking in Abruzzo – by Norbert Hein
It must have been a heavy case of amnesia. Yesterday I enjoyed my Latte Macchiato at an Italian Bar – Dolce Vita in a Mediterranean ambience. Today the world seems to have turned around completely and I don’t have a clue what’s going on. Did I time warp straight to the Bonanza-Ranch?
After a few meters of altitude on today’s ride, a 30 km long and 8 km wide plateau rolls out in front of us. Dimensions like the one’s you see in the most monumental western flics. No tree or bush to block your site. We are passing enormous sheep, cow and horse herds. An endless sound loop with Ennio Morricones showdown music sounds in my head. Rugged rock walls surround fertile pasture land. In the Northwest, Gran Sasso, the “big rock” draws the boundary of this bizarre wonderland. No Indian tribe could have named this mountain more adequately. At the Vado di Corno, the prairie mood finds it’s peak. An untouched cow carcass lies directly on the trail. The thoroughly gnawed skull and the incredibly large horns shine in the beating sun. I’m nervously looking around. The only thing missing is an Apache arrow in my helmet … , or even worse in our only water bottle.
It’s really hard to believe. We neither flew around the globe, nor did we need immunisation against tropical diseases to experience pioneer trails like this. No, our adventure dream turns to reality smack dab in the middle of Bella Italia. No political riots reduce the explorer’s enthusiasm and best of all, we didn‘t have to prepare the trip years in advance to conquer this outstanding landscape. Approximately ten hours on the highway (from Munich, Germany) and a few smaller roads were sufficient to reach the area of Campo Imperatore in the heartland of the Abruzzi.
Just north of Italy’s spur, between the Tyrhennian and the Adriatic Sea, between Rome to the West and Pescara to the East, this Eldorado for Mountainbikers slumbers silently.. No „parla tedesco“ signs, no monstrous ski lift devices and no alpine tumult. Amidst several summits of nearly 3000 m altitude, sensational trails wait to be discovered. I am not exaggerating when I say, the Apennine mountain range easily matches up with the Alps. Wild peaks and soft hills constantly vary the scenery and offer a virtuous ride for the enthusiastic biker. Extremely steep trial tracks in the area of Gran Sasso, technical downhills in the Maiella-Group and more than enough sections with tough gravel roads to get good mileage in the National Park of the Abruzzi: Endless opportunities – deciding which trail to take is the toughest part of all. Whether you are a novice or a professional, a whack Downhiller searching for an adrenaline kick or a cross country lover looking for pure enjoyment, the Abruzzi offer something for everyone. Even hardcore trans-alp fetishists will be surprised.
Nowadays a big part of the Abruzzi region belongs to rigorously protected National Parks. But not to worry, there are no over eagerly installed consequences for Mountain bikers. The guys responsible make pragmatism a priority. There is no “two meter rule” or other blindfolded gimmicks. Consciousness – si, Spoil sport – no!
Castel del Monte, our full suspension bikes draw an enormous interest. But it’s not the kids which pay attention to our goods on the roof rack of the car. The „anziani“, retired men which come together on the marketplace, comment with wild gesticulations and astonished yells towards our bikes. It’s unbelievable what two simple aluminium frames can provoke. To have an “anziano” move from his reserved space of the piazza can usually only be done by the Pope himself or the crash of a meteorite. But on this day, it’s been proven, that not all traditions are etched in stone.
Less than 20 km air distance from Castel del Monte, the Parco Naturale Sirente-Velino begins. It’s summits hardly reach the 2000m limit, but that doesn’t make much of a difference. Whether you reach out from Rocca di Mezzo, Rovere oder Celano with it’s fantastic Renaissance-Fort visible from the distance, whether you bike out for the West towards Monte Velino or to the East facing the Range of Monte Sirente trails, that’s all you see… trails, trails, trails. Too bad, the day only has 24 hours in it! We feel like crying!
The National Park of the Abruzzi exists since 1923 and is regarded as one of the oldest protected nature and wildlife habitats in Europe. Too many trails, not enough time. That’s the truth! We would be more than ready to bike at night but the locals advise us against it. Towards the dense forest of the park there are still about fifty bears and twice as many wolves hanging around. No reason to panic. These poor creatures have been chased for very long. They more than likely fear us more than we fear them. In the end, the wolves are probably easier to catch up with at a junkyard surrounding the little villages than in the wilderness.
But it’s not only because of the flora and fauna, or the delicate trails which make a trip in the Abruzzi worthwhile. Moreover, several interesting places of pilgrimage attract with various spectacular relics. For example, Pacentro: It’s the hometown of Madonna’s grandparents. The world famous pop icon’s grandparents emigrated in 1925, from that sweet little mountain village to big city of Detroit in the U.S. Who knows, you might be lucky and meet her there on a “back to the roots” tour. A few miles to the west lies Sulmona, hometown of the genius and poet Ovid. Every other “Baci” chocolate and loads of Chinese fortune cookies make sure his wisdom is spread with the little messages they contain. If you don’t like them so much, you can also get other, very tasty sweets in Sulmona. The prices are astronomical and worth their weight in gold. Regardless, it seems the „confetti“ are worth every single Lira and they are famous well outside the Abruzzi borders. At Signore Pelini’s, head of the traditional enterprise carrying his name, you can find a lot of pictures and VIP autographs and personal notes to the man himself. Beneath the portraits of two popes you will also find infamous soccer hero Diego Maradona grinning with his chubby cheeks down at you from the wall. By the looks of it, he probably receives the delicious sweets via airmail on a weekly basis.
Well, if the coking Kicker would have tried biking the days he spent in the Abruzzi, he’d probably still be in decent shape today. Because it’s the trails you’ll get addicted to here rather than any other substance. And I guarantee, they are definitely not on any international doping list.
Information:
Nationalparks:
Parco Nazional del Gran Sasso e di Monti della Laga: It’s the icing on the cake! The width of the landscape and the enormous dimensions resemble Mongolia or the High Sierras of Southern American Andes.
Starting Points for Monti della Laga: Ceppo and Cervaro.
For Gran Sasso: Pietracamela, San Stefano di Sessanio, Castel del Monte.
P.N. Sirente-Velino: two mountain ridges with scarce plateaus in between. Many forest roads and wide gravel-tracks. Starting points: Monte Cefalone, Rocca die Mezzo, Celano.
P.N. d’Abruzzo: Less rocky, but therefore a whole lot of fauna and flora (bears, wolves, vultures…). Starting points: All around the Lago di Barrea, Pescasséroli, Scanno (a little distance off the park at the eastern curb).
P.N. della Maiella: High, and intensely grown forests with picture perfect canyons and interesting caves. Starting points: Pennapiedimonte, Caramánico Terme, Pacentro.
In case of Emergency: Phone the Rescue Service 0862/31 20 10 or 6 18 30
Information: ENIT, (you got the adresses of the Italian ones!)
How to get there: next train station Avezzano, next airport ROMA and Pescara.
Best time of the year: May/June and September ( can be snowy already in October, especially at the Campo Imperatore)
Where to stay and eat:
Campo Imperatore:
Rifugio Campo Imperatore ( directly at the cablecar), approx. EUR 15,00 Lira in a dormitory, for Alpine Club members a 10 % discount is offered, good cuisine & little shop for snacks. Phone: 0862/ 40 00 11
Castel del Monte: Giant pizza and a reasonable priced overnight stay (Bike is allowed in the room) at Ristorante Albergo Miramonte, Tel. 0862/938142. Dal Gattone, Tel. 0862/ 93 84 46, a moderate looking restaurant, delicious and cheap!
Villeta Barrea: Nice rooms, typical Abruzzese cuisine and bike garage at the Hotel il Vecchio Pescatore, Tel. 0864/ 89274. Cheap rooms (Youth-Hostel-style) offers the Pinus Nigra, Tel. 0864/891 41.
Guidebooks/Maps:
Duilio Roggero, Mountain Bike in Abruzzo, Vol. I and Vol II, and Mountain Bike nel Parco nazionale d’Abruzzo“, about 30000 Lira. Good guidance, with maps, altitude profile and a CD.
For the Trails around Corno Grande and the Campo Imperatore you’ll need CAI Gran Sasso d’Italia, Scale 1: 25 000.
For P.N. Sirente – Velino: Cai Nr. 1 Gruppo Velino – Sirente und Nr. 2 Gruppi M. Ocre – M. Cagno – M. Cava – M. S. Rocco – M. Orsello – M. Puzzillo.
At the P.N. d’Abruzzo: Carta turistica, 1: 50000.
P.N. della Maiella: CAI Gruppo della Maiella
This article was published with the kind permission of the author, Norbert Hein. Inside-Abruzzo.com is not responsible for the information or author’s views expressed in this article.
